“I couldn’t believe it,” the man said, decked out in hiking gear and speaking with a German accent, “She was like THIS close to the grizzly.” He pointed to a car about twenty feet away. “Taking pictures with her phone!”
Yep, that was the scene up in Jasper National Park (British Columbia, Canada) a couple weeks ago. We arrived early to hit the trail up into the backcountry. Like everywhere else in the park, things were already busy. But on this particular morning, something was obviously up.
A ranger was dashing about, her head on a swivel, brandishing a canister of bear spray and what appeared to be a paintball gun. “You might not want to head up this trail right now,” she said, with characteristic Canadian understatement. “Yeah, the bear’s probably up around there somewhere by now. Could be anywhere, though. Lots of bears this year. All over the place. I’m not kiddin’ ya.”
Luckily the woman taking selfies with Ol’ Griz got off easy. The bear had eaten enough berries and had no cubs to defend, so it had shambled on its way when the ranger showed up.
We did, of course, divert to another trail across the river, but during the hike I probably let fly with a few more “yawps” than usual, my personal brand of yodel designed to alert bears to our presence at least a half mile away. My wife has asked me to please let her know before I break loose with the yawps, and make sure she’s walking behind me.
One evening at camp I decided to test our bear spray cannisters. They seemed a little old and battered, purchased years ago for a trip in Yellowstone. Sure enough, the cannister popped loose with a respectable blast of orange-ish vapor. Several minutes later, the air suddenly became unbreathable, our eyes and lungs burned, and we had to run for it.
I confess I didn’t notice the breeze which was apparently wafting the noxious vapors slowly in our direction. “Yep, it works!” I said to my wife, “Just imagine getting a blast of that in the face!” I won’t repeat the rest of the conversation.
If you’ve been reading these ArtJournal posts you probably already know I’m an Oregonian through and through, but I also love beautiful, wild places all over the western US and around the world. Getting out in these places is the cornerstone and inspiration of my art practice. Expressing and sharing special places with you is only possible by building relationships with places through experience and understanding.
When we travel, we really get out in it. Most of our waking hours are spent searching for the sublime, heading out in the early morning or evening hours when possible, and covering a lot of miles on the road and trail.
On our recent trip to the Canadian Rockies, for example, we climbed around 20,000 vertical feet in Mount Robson Provincial Park, Jasper National Park, and Banff National Park. In those mountains, there’s not much choice: it’s either straight up or straight down.
And of course, even if you put in the miles, there’s no guarantee of experiencing a place in it’s true colors, quite literally. Conditions vary and are out of your control. In Jasper National Park, for example, a major wildfire started just as we arrived. Smoke filled the air and turned the majestic mountain peaks into vague shapes looming in the brownish-blue haze. The blaze knocked out power to the whole community of Jasper for days. It felt like a bit of deja-vu from 2020 (see this ArtJournal post for that story).
As it turned out, smoke from this and other fires dogged us for most of the trip. Not quite the inspiration I’m looking for, and a reminder to be persistent. One hike – a steady 2000-foot climb – we did a second time just to take advantage of a change in wind direction and better visibility. It paid off with dramatic views and – since it was later in the evening – no people.
Bears, fires, and weather notwithstanding, we were fortunate to spend some spectacular days in the wilds. I gathered enough inspiration, I hope, for a small body of work. The scale of the Canadian Rockies is so grand, I have no idea how I’m going to do it justice. It will be a lovely challenge.
In the meantime, I’ll be showing this weekend at the Corvallis Fall Festival in Corvallis, Oregon. I still have (hopefully) one show’s worth of original artworks available from my recent series. If you’ve had your eye on something, now’s a good chance to grab it. As Insider List subscribers you’ve got dibs any time until the show starts Saturday at 10 am.
It’s been a fantastic summer and I want to thank all my new collectors for making it such a wonderful success! You’re the best, seriously. You’re the reason I do this, and the reason I get to keep making art.
This fall will be interesting… I have a lot of ideas and a lot of work to do. I’m curious where it will take me and what will emerge. Hopefully you are, too. I’ll keep you posted.